It Pays to be Small

Last night our late arrival in Arundel precluded any opportunity to view the city so today we began our morning with a brief bit of wandering. The hill above the city is dominated by a cathedral and a very large castle. In planning we scratched out Arundel Castle from our plan as much of it was built in the early 20th century which in our book qualifies as a fake. The city was teeming with people and cars as a large Saturday market was closing off streets.

 

Our Saturday morning plan was to escape for an early morning stroll around Amberley, a village that holds a special place in my heart. Several years ago, Mike took me and visiting Portland friends there during a day tour of places not to miss in England and we each bought hand-made dishes from the village pottery. Sadly, on this brief revisit we were too early for the pottery. The narrow, curving streets are filled with stone houses topped with thatched rooves and front gardens with colorful flowers. Residents were out walking dogs and chatting with neighbors. To the visitor it seems like an idyllic life. I did notice that nearly all houses had prominent security systems. Mmmmm?

 

While looking for possible B and B's we passed over the Amberley Castle, being hesitant to spend $£300 ($450) a night. Thinking it deserved at least drive by inspection, we were foiled by securely locked electric gates. Not to be discouraged we parked and I snuck around the end of the fence for a few pictures, expecting the security guards with dark suits and ear pieces to come raising up any moment. Could not resist the chicanery to capture a picture of their very elaborate tree house.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our primary destination for the day was Winchester Cathedral. Cathedrals are always breathtaking. How did they ever construct them and make them last for millennia? What makes them exceptional for tourists are the guides. At Winchester we were rewarded with three excellent docents. Our first was a tour of the main floor of the cathedral with an older gentleman with a very droll sense of humor. Racing from one tour to the next we climbed the tower with a small group of seven that included two guides. The staircases resembled the slot canyons of Utah. Carefully placing our feet sideways, holding on to the rope, and breathing in allowed us to slither up the stairs. The roof, sans fences and barricades, allowed a 360 degree view of the city of Winchester. If anyone is interested we have certificates signed by the bishop to prove that we completed the climb unscathed.

 

 

A modern sculpture from the crypt of the Cathedral

 

Posted with Blogsy

Rails to Royals

 

 

 

 

New day, new weather. The storm seems to have passed and the sun is showing through the clouds. The plan was to drive by the Romney, Hythe, and Dymchurch Railway for Mike to reminisce about his ride sixty years ago wearing his infamous rabbit jumper. The attraction was too strong and we purchased tickets for a ride from Romney to Hythe and back. The trains at one-third scale looking cute and toy like. Our little green train was coal fired with billows of steam. Mike was in memory heaven.

 

While waiting for departure we visited a water tower that Mike found mentioned in a book. It was built as part of a development project in Littlestone in 1890. From the beginning the plans went awry and the water tower remained standing alone without the planned golf course and housing. It is now a very unique private residence.

 

Our first planned stop was at Bateman's, the home of Rudyard Kipling. Kipling, wealthy from his writing by the age of 36, bought this 17th century property. Beginning with 33 acres, he increased his holdings to 300 acres. From the outside the house is picturesque set among gardens of flowers, herbs, fruit trees, and a large pond. The interior, although interesting, would not appeal to most people of today. Using the stream he built a mill with a dynamo to creat enough electricity during daylight hours for a few hours light each evening. Heating and inside water came later. Using elements from the garden and grains milled on site, the staff produced the best tearoom food we have found in all of our visits to tourist sites.

 

Continuing on our planned route we headed off to Brighton. Our destination was the Royal Palace. Having seen many pictures I knew the outside facade. Not having given it much thought I had never considered the inside. Wow! Built in 1787 to be a retreat for George Prince of Wales, later to be King George IV, it is lavishly over the top. The style appears Indian but is an English interpretation that would not have been recognized by any Indian of that time. George valued entertaining with extravagant parties. The presentation of food was more valued than the taste and parties did not end until dawn. His unpopularity with his subjects and his enormous girth prompted him to have a tunnel built from the Pavillion to the horse stable where he could visit his favorite race horses.

One last note about our B and B in Arundel. Built in the 1700's it was unassuming from the street. A narrow terrace without a sign, we were not positive we were knocking at the correct door. Inside there were five levels, alternating at half floors between the front and back of the home. The story goes that it was built for the mistress of the king and an underground passage connected it to the castle several blocks away. Sadly, after 32 years in residence neither she nor her children have found the secret door. I wanted to go and help look but it was time to move on.

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Not Stopped by Wind, Rain, and Fog

Due to an inefficient, shambolic car rental agency Mike and I were off to a late start this morning. Our days are planned for maximum touring with little allowance for delays. So finally off at eleven we headed for Leeds Castle.

 

The approach to the castle is a walk through woodlands and meadows, crossings streams, and viewing hundreds of assorted birds. Pausing to photograph the exterior before entering was one of our best ideas of the day. This castle changed hands innumerable times. Four wives of monarchs, beginning with Catherine of Aragon, possessed the property. The castle was built on a series of islands in the River Len which created the most memorable feature of viewing water and greenery from every window in every room. Exiting the castle the rain had begun, the fog clouds had descended, and the feel was midwinter. With no plans to return we slogged out to the falconry and the maze. Birds being sensible creatures were hunkered down with no notion of strutting their stuff for two wet and cold humans.

The last private owner of Leeds Castle was Lady Baillie. With help from her daughters she converted her home to a hospital during the Second World War. Shades of Downton Abbey. More recently the castle hosted the pre-Camp David Accord discussions and the Northern Ireland Peace Treaty.

 

Back in the rental car we headed for the southern coast and Dover Castle. Apparently heading south does not necessarily mean an improvement in weather. The rain was sheeting and the wind blowing when we arrived. Assured that we could make the last tunnel tour we parked, secured tickets, and sprinted back down the hill to the shelter of the tunnel entrance. This was a castle tour like no other. We spent fifty minutes underground without a single piece of period gilded furniture, a fancy crystal chandelier, or ancestral portrait. The tunnels under the castle were dug as a defense during the Napoleonic Wars but their true value came during the Second World War. Creative and dedicated military planned the evacuation of the soldiers trapped at Dunkirk. The pre- operation estimate was saving 40,000 lives but over 370,000 were returned safely to Britain. Our guided tour was augmented with accurately recreated underground offices and video projections of strafing planes, rescue ships, and actual footage from Dunkirk and from London as the soldiers returned. As we drove away the weather was so foul that it was impossible to see that we were leaving a coastal town. Therefore, no photos.

 

Posted with Blogsy

From Harney to Heathrow

 

Diamond sunset

Cycle Oregon was ten days filled with the beautiful landscapes of southeastern Oregon and the amazing people who live in one of the most remote areas of the United States outside of Alaska. Our overnight stops included Diamond, population of five, and Seneca and Crane, communities that were only slightly larger. I was most interested in the children. Many were the fifth generation to live on their families' ranches. The elementary schools were one or two rooms with students boarding in Crane for high school. I tried, unsuccessfully, to hid my big city ignorance. A local resident told me that her daughter taught in a one-room K-8 schoolhouse. This year she only has students in four of the grades. So I asked "How many students?" With a somewhat puzzled look she replied, "Well, that would be four."

 

Home on Sunday night, we boarded a flight to London Tuesday at noon. It is cool and damp but great to be in England. The smallest things immediately remind me that our shared language is similar but not the same. The first traffic sign as we exited the terminal said, "Drive, Dead Slow." Apparently the English have turned the verb stand into a noun as the bus admonished "No Standees".

 

We are staying the night in Reading, pronounced redding not reeding for no explainable reason. While Mike dined with Lucy I explored the ruins of the Forbury Abbey and the adjoining park. In 1539 the last Abbot was hanged, drawn and quartered outside the gate and the property seized by the Crown. Today it is a peaceful site surrounded by businesses and housing.

 

 

 

 

 

Forbury Park Statue, Reading

 

Reading Town Hall

 

 

 

Posted with Blogsy