Jet Blue could become our favorite airline. Arriving at PDX security we were informed that we both had a TSA PRECHK. With no prior knowledge or effort on our part they had determined that we were not a security risk. That meant keeping our jackets, shoes and belts on, not unloading liquids or computers, no little trays of wallets, keys and small change, not waiting in endless lines. It was our lucky day!
A 9pm departure from Portland led to a 5:30am Easter Sunday breakfast in New York followed by a 10:30am arrival in Charleston in the rain, in the sun, in the wind. As everywhere we go the locals exclaim, "the weather usually isn't like this!" Glad to be off planes we walked around historic Charleston in very windy and cool weather, acquainting ourselves with directions and landmarks. In every direction we saw beautiful old homes, each with piazzas facing south, the closer to the water the grander they became.
In our exploring we walked into the public market. It is five or six blocks long with two being enclosed and the rest covered with a roof. The space was donated by the Pinckney family prior to the Civil War. The continued use of the property hinged on two factors; the market is open every day except Christmas and ownership would immediately revert to the Pinkneys should humans ever be bought or sold on the premises. Today was Easter Sunday and the stalls were full of merchandise and the aisles crowded with shoppers. Emerging from the crowd were six "Easter bunnies" dressed in satin tutus, tights, and ears. Three were leaving as we approached, the remaining three on any other day would be classified as large, slightly past middle aged, and male. Could this be a Charleston tradition?
Meeting Carmen and Clark for dinner was a special occasion. They had made reservations at SNOB, an acronym for Slightly North Of Broad. In the past Broad Street was considered a dividing line, north of Broad was the wrong side of the tracks. The food was delicious, the company and conversation outstanding. Mike and I received a mini lesson in the cultural customs of the south, Carmen and Clark an update on the Lai family.
Monday was our official tour the city day. We began with a walking tour of historic Charleston. Our guide was a seventh generation local with no discernible Southern accent, who welcomed Mike at our initial introduction with some choice London dialect. He was not only a walking encyclopedia of information, he was entertaining and knew and spoke to every local person we passed on the street. Later in our meandering and reading plaques we were surprised to find his family home.
After a quick stop for Mike's snack and my ice tea we arrived at the first stop on a culinary tour that was comprised of three restaurants, nine courses, one beer, one cocktail, and an additional walking tour with another knowledgeable guide. Dinner was definitely out of the question, so we limited ourselves to a bottle of wine on our second floor porch/piazza.
The road to being a guide explains why they are so informative and interesting. Interested applicants must internalize a large volume divided into two sections, history and architecture. They take a written test which has a lower pass rate than the bar, partially because there is no sample test to use as a study guide. This is followed by an oral test. To maintain your license you must attend continuing education classes.
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