Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Feeling Like We Sailed on the Titanic

Wednesday, August 20th

Before arriving in Belfast we had booked tickets for the newish Titanic Experience. After yesterday's struggle finding our hotel among the central one way streets we decided to leave the car parked and take a bus. This was an excellent (Jan's words), mind blowing (Mike's words) tour. Approaching the building it appears as an enormous silver ship. Inside is a amazing multi story display which took us up and down in stages to reflect the huge scale and verticality of the ship. Our audio tour supplemented visuals, interactive displays, movies, and a Disney like ride through the construction of the ship's hull. It was quite an experience encompassing ship construction, the supporting industries like linen and rope making, the extravagance of luxury travel, the competition between rival transatlantic shipping companies, the sinking, the rescue, and the loss of life. The final exhibits detailed the searches for wreckage and a video of Dr. Robert Ballard explaining how he found and explored the sunken ship. Standing on a glass floor we watched the remote control cameras record the remains including shoes that have sat on the ocean floor for decades. When questioned a docent explained that in those days leather was treated with urine  which has protected the shoes from decay. Add that to the list of undesirable jobs in life!

Titanic Experience 

Front Entrance
Our afternoon was spent touring the Crumlin Road Gaol which housed prisoners from 1845 to 1996. During the Troubles "terrorists" from both sides were housed here. For those not involved in the conflict they were identified as "ordinary decent criminals". The guide credited another common expression, "being called on the carpet" to the gaol. The only room with carpeting was the warden's office and if you were in trouble you appeared in front on him. Maybe true?  About twenty murderers were hung here. Their punishment ended with burial in an unmarked, unconsecrated grave. Today families have asked for remains which requires much searching because unmarked meant that no records were kept. The guide was interesting and informative until the last when he, with a bit of passion, expounded on the value of capital punishment. 
  
Main building of the Crumlin Road Gaol


Ironwork staircases in the goal
A pre dinner drink was our excuse to visit the Crown Liquor Saloon for a glass of red. This incredibly ornate building dates back to the 1880's and is the only pub owned by the National Trust. We shared our snug with a few other people and sipped our wine surrounded by an overwhelming environment of polished wood, brass, stained and engraved glass, elaborate tiles  and the whole lot illuminated by gaslight. Everywhere there were small brass plates with raised letters spelling MATCHES. Was this where you were to strike your match when smoking was allowed?


Bar at the Crown Liquor Saloon

Our shared snug

Dressed for a nice dinner we walked to Ginger, a lovely small restaurant that lived up to its outstanding reputation. Part way through our meal we got into a conversation with a 30ish couple sitting at the next table. The guy was getting increasing excited about the fact that most of the cast of "Game of Thrones" was sitting at a large table about 20 feet away. Although familiar with the books and knowing there was a TV show neither his girlfriend or Mike or I were interested. He kept trying to take photos on his mobile phone across our table refusing to take our advice to stand up, walk by, you will be sorry if you don't. Trying to be nonchalant he would continue to eat his meal before again exclaiming "OMG, I can't believe it!"

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