Traveling South Through Powercourt

Sunday, August 24th

North up the coast to Bray, turn left to Powerscourt, that was the plan. Our map disagreed severely with reality and we clocked up several more u-turns and took much longer to get there than planned. All was easily forgotten as we ambled through the picturesque landscape and ancient trees, formal gardens, statuary, fountains, a Japanese garden, and a pepper pot tower. I had visited fourteen years ago with Angie and Sam but had forgotten or not fully appreciated the  immensity of the grounds. The variety and size of the trees is a reminder of the age of the gardens. There was not a gardener in sight nor was there any place in need of maintenance. I imagined a large number of workers with headlamps working all through the night and collapsing into bed at daybreak. The perfect lawns cascading down beside stone walkways with fountains and statuary is very impressive and found on all of their publicity but the smaller, more intimate sections were my favorites. 

There is a Powerscourt Waterfall with a separate entrance and additional fee. Living near a gorge full of beautiful waterfalls we decided to skip a visit but we loved the story behind the falls.

Powerscourt

Powerscourt

In August 1821, during the visit of King George IV to Ireland, Richard Wingfield, 5th Viscount Powerscourt decided to create a dam so that he could have the water released in the presence of the king creating an impressive torrent. The King and Wingfield never went to the falls which was a blessing for all involved. When the water was released it washed away the bridge where the king would have been standing.

Japanese Garden at Powerscourt

Japanese Garden at Powerscourt

Statue near the entrance to Powerscourt

It was raining as we left to head south along the eastern side of the Old Military Road. This was more developed and less spectacular than the wildness of yesterday's drive. Roundwood, the village with the highest elevation in Ireland, was just another wide spot in the road with nothing to distinguish it from dozens of others. 

We emerged at Arklow where our map failed us again. After a few more missteps we arrived at our B and B in Enniscorthy. Before everything shut down for the night we had enough time for a self guided tour of the castle and a trip to the roof in the rain and wind. Neither of us had heard of Enniscorthy, but like so many Irish towns it has a very long history dating back to 1190. The castle was used as a private residence for 150 years beginning in 1898 by the Roche family. The first Roche to live in the castle was married to a member of the American Shriver family. She was Sergeant Shriver's great aunt. Near the Norman castle is a Neogothic cathedral designed by Awn Pugin who worked on the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. Within sight of the top of the castle is Vinegar Hill where 1500 people died in the 1798 battle between 10,000 Wexford troops and 20,000 British soldiers. Guess who won? A number of old granary, mill, and pottery buildings still exist beside the river. One of these potteries was founded in 1654 and is still producing today.

Castle at Enniscorthy